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A. HELWIG. BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

Patentedmne so, 17891.

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A. HBLWIG. BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 455,207. PatenvtedJune so, 11891.

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(Nol Model.) 4Sheets-Shet 4. A. HELWIG.

BUTTON'HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 455,207. Patented June 30, 1891.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ARTHUR HELVIG, OF LONDON, ENGLAND.

BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part ef Letters Patent Ne. 455,207, dated June so,1891.

Application filed September 15, 1886 Serial No. 213.557- (No model.)Patented in England August 28, 1886I No. 11,013, and

in Germany September 3, 1886, No. 38,890. f

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known that I, ARTHUR HELWIG, a subject of the Queen of GreatBritain and Ireland, residing at Leighton Road, Kentish Town, London, inthe county of Middlesex, Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, haveinvented Improvelnents in Sewing-Machines for Making Button-Holes, (forwhich I have obtained German Patent No. 38,890, dacted September 3,1886, and English Patent No. 11,013, dated August 28, 1886,) of whichthe following is a specification.

This invention has reference to machines known as automaticbutton-hole-making machines, and particularly that kind forming thesubject of my application for Letters Patent of the United States tiledDecember l, 1883, Serial No. 113,343.

My present invention has for its object to make what is known in thetrade as the final bar-that is to say, the stitching across the narrowend of the button-holewhich heretofore it has been usual to do by hand.Thus by my invention I am enabled to completely make the button-hole bymachinery Without any hand-work; and in order that the nature of myinvention and the manner of carrying it into practical effect may beclearly understood, I append four sheets of illustrative drawings.

Figure l shows a machine embodying my invention, which comprises anarrangement' of mechanism in connection with the needlebar, therevolving hook or looper, and the feed, the operation bei-.ng such thatwhen itis' required to produce the final bar or sewing across the narrowend of the button-hole the needle is caused to have a greater swingingor side-to-side motion, and the revolving hook or looper or itsequivalent, which engages the loop of thread formed below the fabric, iscaused to have an increased endwise motion, such as will place the samein a proper position to receive the thread from the needle whenitdescends through the fabric, and the feeding mechanism is caused toremain stationary or out ofmoperation, all these changes in operationbeing brought about by a single adjustment of the iinal-bar mechanism orattachment, according to my led therewith are shown in section.

invention, as hereinafter described, and continuing during the formationof the final bar. The upper part of the machine is shown in elevationwith the side plate or arm of the goose-neck -that is, the hollow armcontaining the operating mechanism-removed, and the base-plate and partsconnect- Fig. 2 is an inverted plan or under side View. Fig. 3 is a viewsimilar to Fig. l, showing part of the goose-neck and base-plate withconnected mechanism. Fig. et is a View at right angles to Fig. 3 of theattachment for producingthe final bar or sewing across the narrow end ofthe button-hole. It is shown as seen looking in the direction of thearrow A in Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a plan or top View showing part of theratchet-wheel 2l, that constitutes the feedplate; also the pawl 22,whereby the same is actuated; the slide or bar 23, that carries the saidpawl, and the cam 2O on the revolving hookvor looper-shaft 17, whichoperates the said slide or bar, and part of the lockingbar, whereby theslide or bar 23 is locked, so

" as to keep the feeder out of action during the formation of the finalbar.

Fig. 6 shows in side elevation a contrivance whereby the finalbarattachment is moved into position for causing the greater traverse ofthe needle and of the revolving hook or looper, respectively, forproducing the final bar, and whereby the said attachment is afterwardlowered into the position it occupies during the ordinary sewing roundof the button-hole. This view shows the contrivance as seen looking inthe direction of the arrowB in Fig. 3. Fig. 7 shows the same contrivanceas seen looking in the contrary direction. Fig. 8 represents aneccentric device, which can be usedfor the same purpose.

In a machine of the kind hereinabove re'-v ferred to for makingbutton-holes thereare' used a die or cutter l and cutter-block 2 foricutting the hole, sewing mechanism (it may be of the construction shownin the drawings or of any other suitable construction) for sewing theedges of the hole, and a traveling clip or holder (described in thespecification of the previous patent already alluded to) that holds thematerial during the cutting and sewing IOO operations. The clip orholder is guided by a central stud or pivot 3, through which thesewing-needle 4 passes, and about which the clip or holder turns, a studor projection on the clip or holder, and a guiding-slot in theface-plate or table of the machine, the clip or holder being worked bymeans of a cam or eccentric (not shown) whose axis of rotation iScoincident with the axis of the stud or pivot 3, through which theneedle works. The two ordinary motions-videlicet, the side-to-sidemotion of the needle-bar 5, and the ordinary endwise motionA of therevolving hook or looper G-may be conveniently derived from two cams 7and 8 on a vertical shaft 9, asV

before. The upper one 7 acts on a roller 9 at the end ot' a rod 10, inconnection with the slide 11 of the needle-bar, and the lower cam S on aroller 12 running on an arm or stud 13 collars 15 and 16 on therevolving hook or looper-shaft 1.7. ln each case (as before) the camforces the roller in one direction only, the return motion beingeffected by a spring 13, and limited by an adjustable stud 19. 20 is acam on the revolving` hook or `looper shaft 17. This cam in its rotationoperates the bar or slide 23 in the direction of the arrow, and it isreturned by a spring. (Not shown.) The slide 23 carries a pawl 22,which,by the reciprocatious of the slide, is caused to impart intermittentmotion in a rotary sense to the ratchet-wheel 2l.

I proceed now to describe arrangements whereby the machine is renderedcapable of` producing the final bar.

24C and 25 are cams fixed to the shaft Qt. They are of greater throw oreccentrioity than the cams 7 and 8, and act upon rollers 26 and 27,respectively, when they occupy the higher positions, hereinafterdescribed. Then they impart longitudinal motion to the said rollers inone direction. The rollers 26 and 27 are carried, respectively, in aslot or opening in a frame-piece 28 and in a frame-piece 29. Each ofthese framepieces is hinged or jointed to an intermediate connecting baror link 30. The roller 26'is on the same stud or pin 31 as the roller 9,and the roller 27 is on the same stud or pin 13: as the roller 12. Thecombined parts 28, 29, and 30 slide on and are guided in their verticalmotion (when lifted or lowered) by the studs or pills 13 and 3l on whichthe rollers work.

33 is an arm or finger hinged to the framepiece 28. It extends throughthe base-plate of the machine and takes against one end of thefeed-locking bar 34, which is jointed at 34* to the bar 35, pivoted at35:k to the under side of the base-plate.

the base-plate adapted to engage with a shoulder 37 on the locking-bar34 and to hold the said bar in its forward or locking positionbutton-hole.

3 4" is a stud that extends through a slot in vention of a link e0. oneend to a pin el on the lever 39 and at its other end is hinged orpivoted to the link 47.

sewing round of the button-hole. has been finished, the combined parts28, 29, l and 30 and attached arm or finger 33 are ing mechanism.

the locking-bar and is fixed in the underside of the base-plate. 43 is aspring under compression between the head of the stud andthelocking-bar.

Referring now to themeans for altering the positions of the rollers tochange the throw of the needle and looper in the one arrangement, 38 isa pin working in a slot 39 in the link 30. It is carried by a link i7and can be operated so as to impart vertical motion to the link 30 by alever 39 through the inter- This link is fixed at In lieu of thejust-described arrangement the lever 39 may operate an eccentric 42direct, as shown in Fig. 8, the eccentric taking into the slot 39 in thelink 30, as will be readj ily understood. attached to a sleeve lll,retained between The operation of the mechanism is as follows: When theparts are in the relative pol' sitions shown in the drawings, the roller7 and 8 and springs 18 during the working of the machine will impart theswinging or to-andfro movement to``the needle-bar and the longitudinalto-and-fro motions to the hook or looper-shaft 17 required to effect theordinary Then this raised by operating the lever 39L by hand, so

: as to place the cams 24 and 25 in rolling conl tact with the rollers26 and 27. The lockingbar 34 will then be pressed against the catch A.orstop 36 by the spring 43. While the parts occupy these positions therotation of the machine will cause the rollers 24C and 25 to impart theincreased longitudinal motion to the shafts 10 and17, and consequentlyalso to the needle and looper required to produce the final bar. Thefinal bar may consist of any desired number of stitches. On the firstforward movement of the sleeve-piece 14 after `the raising of the parts28, 29, and 30 and attached parts the locking-bar 34 will be forcedforward, so as to take behind a projection 23"", attached to thefeeding-bar 23, as shown in dotted lines, and so will prevent the saidbar being returned under the action of its spring or equivalent, thusstopping the feed- Vhenrthe final bar is finished, the combined parts28, 29, and 30 and attached parts are again lowered into the positionshown in the drawings. The lowering :of the arm or finger 33 will causeit to force the locking-bar 34 away from the catch or stop 36. Thelocking-bar 3ft-will then return toits original position under theaction of the spring 4A, and the ordinary sewing of another button-holecan be proceeded with.

36 is a catch or stop on the under side of Having now particularlydescribed and ascertained the nature of my said invention and in whatmanner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim isduring the production of the inalbar of a l. In a button-holesewing-machine, the

cating needle-bar and a laterally-movable ro IOC IIO

IZO

tary looper, a rotary drive-shaft to impartthe lateral stroke to saidlooper and needle-bar, a feeder, a lock therefor operating substantiallyas set forth, interposed operating mechanisms and connections,substantially as described,l arranged to impart varied lateral strokesto saidv needle-bar and looper, and shifting mechanism, substantially asdescribed, controlling said lock and operating mechanisms and arrangedto alternately throw the needle-bar and looper into connection with theshaft through one or the other` of said mechanisms, as and for thepurposes set forth.

2. In a machine for making button-holes, provided with a needle and alooper, the combination, with a shaft that imparts swinging motion tothe needle-bar, of mechanism coinprising a sleeve 9*, spring 18, rollers9 and 26 on a pin 31, and cams 7 and 24 on a shaft 9, the arrangementbeing such that a smaller or greater swinging motion can be imparted tothe needle-bar by adjusting the position of,-

the roller 26 according as it is required to effect ordinary sewing ofthe edge of a buttonhole or to make the final bar or stitches across theend of such button-hole, as above described.

3. In a machine for making button-holes, provided with a needle and alooper, the combination of a shaft that imparts swinging motion to theneedle-bar, a sleeve 9*, spring 18, rollers 9 and 26 on a pin 3l, cams 7and 24 on a shaft- 9,asleeve on the looper-shaft, rollers 12 and 27 on astud or pin 13 in a lower frame-piece connected to the upper framepiece28, and cams 8 and 25 on the shaft 9, the arrangement being` such thatva smaller or greater swinging motion can be'imparted to the needle-barby adjusting the position of the roller 26, as and for the purposessubstantially as described.

4. In a machine for making button-holes, provided with a needle and alooper, the combination, with mechanism comprising cams 7, 8, 24, and25, and frame-pieces 28 and 29, with rollers 9, 12, 26, and 27, operatedby said cams, whereby a smaller or greater swinging motion canbeimparted to the needle-bar and a corresponding longitudinal movementto the looper, of a feeder, a catch or stop 36, slotted locking-bar 34,with shoulder 37, jointed to a pivoted bar 35, a stud 34, spring 43,spring 44, and all arm orflnger 33, jointed to the frame-piece 2S, thearrangement being such that when the rollers have been moved into thepositions for imparting the greater throw to theneedle and looper formaking a final bar the .locking-bar 34 will, by the action of the cam25, be caused to take a position in which it will lock the slide or bar23, thus arresting the feed, as described. 'l

In testimony whereof I have signed my name .to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

^ i ARTHUR HELWIG. Witnesses:

W. F. WHITE, CHARLES ERNEST BROUGHAM, Both of 40 Lz'fncolns [1m Fields,London.

